Contents
1. A warehouse that forbids going negative2. Dyehouse recipe — owf and g/L3. Machine parameters and the yarn-lot lock4. Colour–size matrix5. Marker (lay plan) and efficiency6. 4-point fabric inspection7. Subcontract waste beyond tolerance8. Fabric kilogram ↔ metre conversion and shrinkage allowance9. Reading the marker from a CAD file (DXF / HPGL)10. Sewing line balancing and the Andon board11. Subcontract despatch note (free-of-charge despatch annotation)Help › Textile
Textile: Dyehouse, Knitting Machine, Cutting and Fabric Inspection
This guide covers six points of textile production that had no counterpart in HNR: the chemical store that must never go negative, the dye recipe computed from fabric weight and bath litres, the machine's diameter/gauge setting together with the yarn lot on the creel, the colour–size breakdown, the marker (lay) plan, and 4-point fabric inspection. It ends with the cost of waste beyond the agreed tolerance in subcontracting.
1. A warehouse that forbids going negative
In HNR stock can normally go negative; when it does, the system asks for approval and records who approved. On the shop floor this is the right behaviour: the goods are physically there, the paperwork will follow. But in a chemical or dye store there is no physical state called "minus 40 kg of dye". A negative balance there means an unweighed or unrecorded receipt — and when the bath recipe is computed from that wrong balance, the whole dyeing is ruined from the start.
How to turn it on: Warehouses window › warehouse card › Forbid going negative. Only a system administrator can tick it. It is off by default — your existing warehouses behave exactly as before.
In such a warehouse neither a production confirmation nor a sale can pass with negative-stock approval. The error starts with EKSI_YASAK_DEPO and says what to do: record the goods receipt first. A gate that can be approved away makes the operator approve exactly the mistake the system was meant to catch; this gate is opened or closed by the administrator on the warehouse card, not by the user at the moment of work.
2. Dyehouse recipe — owf and g/L
In a dye recipe the chemical quantity is not a fixed figure; it is written in two ways. owf (on weight of fabric, a percentage) is used for dyestuff, and g/L (grams per litre of bath) for salt, soda and auxiliaries. The bath volume is not fixed either: it follows from the liquor ratio (litres of bath per kg of fabric) on the recipe header.
Example. Output 100 kg of fabric, liquor ratio 10 L/kg → a 1,000 L bath. A 2% owf dye = 100 × 2 ÷ 100 = 2 kg. 50 g/L salt = 1,000 × 50 ÷ 1,000 = 50 kg. This calculation is read from a single place by the frozen copy on the work order, the material requirement list (MRP), the cost breakdown and the confirmation consumption — it is never recomputed somewhere else.
If you enter a capacity (kg) on the machine card, opening the recipe lists the vessels that can take that batch; if none fits you get an explicit warning. Which vessel takes which lot is a planning decision, not a recipe one — hence a suggestion rather than a gate.
Existing recipes with no calculation type are treated as fixed and behave exactly as before; if the liquor ratio is empty a g/L line cannot be saved and the reason is stated plainly (FLOTTE_ORANI_GEREKLI).
3. Machine parameters and the yarn-lot lock
Production › Machines: enter diameter, gauge, needle count, feeder count and machine type on the machine card. The same recipe run on two machines of different gauge does not produce the same fabric: weight per square metre and tube width change. If the setting lives only on a label stuck to the machine, it leaves no trace on the order and nobody can tell afterwards how the piece was knitted.
On save the program compares the needle count with diameter × π × gauge; if it deviates by more than 10% it warns but still saves — real machines have odd counts, and the record is not blocked.
If you record the yarn lot mounted on the creel (Mount lot), declaring a different lot on a confirmation raises LOT_UYUSMAZ. The gate only works while Lot / serial tracking is enabled in Production Preferences. It has a visible escape (lotUyusmazOnay) and the trace is stored on the confirmation: two lots really may have been mixed on the creel, but production must not continue without that being recorded — barré shows up when the piece is dyed, and the only place to look for the mixed lot is here.
4. Colour–size matrix
In garment making there is no such work order as "1,000 t-shirts"; the order is the colour × size breakdown of those 1,000. HNR now keeps that breakdown as a matrix sitting on top of the order: Production › order › Matrix. Each row carries its own stock code (SKU) — black M and black S are separate cards, shipped separately and counted separately.
The rules are short: the matrix total may not exceed the order quantity; the same code+colour+size cannot be split over two rows; a row that has been confirmed cannot be deleted or reduced below the confirmed quantity. On an order that has a matrix, a confirmation must declare the breakdown — otherwise how many of each size came out is lost, and "40 mediums missing" is only discovered at the customer.
Fabric, yarn and trims are not consumed separately per size — the marker lays sizes mixed anyway. So the component deduction happens in one step on the matrix total; the breakdown matters only on the finished-goods side. Orders without a matrix behave exactly as before.
5. Marker (lay plan) and efficiency
In fabric, a "part size" on its own says nothing; what drives consumption is marker length × number of plies. Production › Cutting › Marker: enter the marker width and length, the ply count, which fabric it is laid from and for which order; parts are listed with code, quantity, width, length, colour and size.
Efficiency is computed on the server and any efficiency sent by the client is ignored: Σ(part area × quantity) ÷ (marker width × length). That number is the control figure compared against the waste target; it cannot be left to whoever sends it. A part wider than the marker is rejected (PASTAL_PARCA_SIGMAZ), and so is a total area larger than the marker.
Ask for the cutting list with ?tip=tekstil and you get marker rows (also as CSV) instead of panel size columns; without the parameter the output is exactly the old one. The part list can be imported from CSV/JSON: the import is preview only, unreadable rows are not dropped silently but listed with a reason, and nothing is saved until you approve. DXF, ISO Cut and proprietary binary marker formats are not parsed — a half-understood CAD file silently produces wrong sizes; those programs can already export the part table as CSV.
6. 4-point fabric inspection
Quality window › Fabric inspection. First enter the roll details (code, lot, roll no, metres, width); then add defects one by one. The program computes the points, you do not type them — based on the longest dimension of the defect:
- up to 7.5 cm → 1 point
- 7.6 – 15 cm → 2 points
- 15.1 – 23 cm → 3 points
- longer than 23 cm → 4 points
- a hole larger than 1 cm → 4 points regardless of length
- Points collected in one linear metre are capped at 4 — if a metre has six defects that metre is scrap anyway, and writing 12 points would distort the statistics.
The total is normalised to 100 m²: points × 100 ÷ (inspected metres × width). Without normalising you cannot compare a 30 m roll with a 300 m roll. The class thresholds are a company setting (20 / 40 points per 100 m² by default): the threshold follows the customer contract and cannot be hard-coded. Below the first threshold is grade 1, between is grade 2, above is scrap.
If you attach a lot record no to the inspection, a scrap verdict locks that lot through the existing lot block path — no second notion of "blocked" is invented, which would otherwise create a lock releasable from two places. If no lot is attached the program says so explicitly and asks you to block it manually; it does not pass silently. The feature is switched on in Production Preferences under Fabric inspection (4-point) and is off by default.
7. Subcontract waste beyond tolerance
A waste tolerance (%) is agreed when goods are sent to a subcontractor. Waste within tolerance belongs to the subcontractor; anything beyond it belongs to you. HNR computes that excess (excess waste) and its value: excess waste × the material's current smart unit cost (last purchase → stock cost). No second cost definition is introduced.
Subcontract reconciliation is not a payment order; the figure is shown as "amount to be deducted from the invoice" and you post the offset yourself. Three numbers appear: excess waste, waste value and net entitlement (matched amount − waste value).
Exceeding the tolerance no longer locks the return. Locking it left a job that was physically finished on the floor open in the system, and the goods at the subcontractor stayed off the books. The excess is passed with a visible approval (toleransAsimOnay); the trace is stored on the return record and the excess waste is valued as above.
8. Fabric kilogram ↔ metre conversion and shrinkage allowance
Fabric sits in the warehouse in kilograms but is written in the BOM in metres. The factor between them is not a number you type in; it follows from two physical measurements: kg/m = (width_cm ÷ 100) × (GSM ÷ 1000). One metre of a 180 cm wide, 200 g/m² fabric weighs 0.360 kg. You enter width and GSM on the Fabric tab of the stock card; HNR derives the factor.
Save only stores width/GSM/shrinkage. Writing the derived factor into the card's CEVIRIM2 field is a separate, explicit confirmation ("Apply the factor to the card"), because that number runs through stock movements, BOM explosion and costing — if a screen changed it silently, past figures would become unexplainable. Every applied change is recorded in the audit trail. If the gap between measurement and card exceeds a percentage the save can be stopped: Settings › Safety gates › stok.kumas_cevrim_sapma_yuzde (default 0 = off); the escape is cevrimSapmaOnay.
Shrinkage allowance is the shortening of fabric in dyeing and washing. It is set as a percentage on a BOM line and the exploded quantity grows by × (1 + shrinkage ÷ 100). ⚠ Shrinkage may only be set on a line measured in length units: in dyeing the fabric gets shorter but its weight does not change. If you try to set it on a kilogram line HNR rejects it with CEKME_BIRIM_UYUMSUZ — silently writing 0 would have let you believe an allowance was applied.
9. Reading the marker from a CAD file (DXF / HPGL)
Instead of typing the marker piece list by hand you can hand HNR the file from your CAD/CAM program. HNR reads two open formats: DXF (ASCII) and HPGL/PLT. The read is always a PREVIEW; nothing is saved until you confirm.
- Piece area now comes from the real contour (shoelace), not the bounding box. This stops a genuinely nested marker from exceeding 100 % and being rejected: two L-shaped pieces have a 20,000 cm² bounding-box total but a real area of 15,000 cm².
- The unit is never guessed. In DXF the header's
$INSUNITSis read (inch / foot / mm / cm / m). If the file carries no unit, or an unsupported code, HNR stops and asks you for it — a wrong guess means a tenfold wrong size. In HPGL the unit is fixed: 1 plotter unit = 0.025 mm. - Nothing unreadable is dropped silently. An open contour or a block reference (
INSERT) lands in the skipped list with its reason. For block references, export an "exploded" DXF from your CAD program. - File size: the marker upload limit is 8 MB. Above that HNR asks you to split the file or supply the piece table as CSV. CSV and JSON import work exactly as before.
The schemas of Gerber (.rul/.mrk), Lectra (.iba/.vet/.mdl) and Optitex (.mrk) files are not published; a half-understood CAD file silently produces wrong sizes and the error only shows after the fabric has been cut. All three can export DXF-AAMA or HPGL — use that route.
10. Sewing line balancing and the Andon board
The Andon board answers a single question: where is the line jamming? Per station it shows produced quantity, standard minute value (SMV), earned minutes and efficiency; per line it shows average efficiency, the bottleneck station and the imbalance. Imbalance is (highest efficiency − average) ÷ highest × 100.
Why a setting has to be turned on first: until now production confirmations were recorded per order; which station produced how many pieces in how many minutes simply was not in the data. Answering that question from data that does not exist would make the board look right while sending you to hunt the bottleneck at the wrong station. When you open the gate (Settings › Safety gates › uretim.bant_dengeleme, default off) confirmations also store station and line; the board only computes from that day on.
The standard minute comes first from the order's frozen routing (operation time), otherwise from the line station card. If neither exists the station appears with a "no SMV" badge and is excluded from the efficiency figures — counting it silently as 0 would make the line look more unbalanced than it is and send the floater to the wrong place. The board only reads: the floater suggestion is a suggestion, it assigns nobody to a line and writes nothing to the shift plan.
11. Subcontract despatch note (free-of-charge despatch annotation)
When you send goods to a subcontractor the ownership does not change but the goods travel; tax legislation requires a free-of-charge despatch note and the reason for the movement. When you despatch to a subcontract operation HNR issues a definitive number (FI-2026-000001) and an annotation for that document. The annotation text is not hard-coded: Settings › Safety gates › mali.fason_irsaliye_serhi (default "Fason işlenmek üzere gönderilmiştir."). The feature is opened with the mali.fason_irsaliye gate and is off by default.
The subcontract despatch already moves the goods with a warehouse slip. Meeting the "issue a despatch note too" request by writing a normal despatch note would move the same goods twice and silently double the stock. What is produced here is therefore only the number + annotation + document; stock, warehouse and ledger balances do not change. Asking for a number a second time on the same operation returns the same number — no duplicate document is created.
e-Despatch: the document can also be downloaded as a UBL-TR DespatchAdvice draft. If no integrator is configured the endpoint returns 424 ("missing precondition" — not a server error). ⚠ The generated XML contains the 14 mandatory elements of the guide but has not been validated against the official XSD (semaDogrulanmadi); do not send it without your integrator's schema check. The seal/signature is applied at the integrator. The legislation does not prescribe a single mandatory sentence for subcontract despatch; your accountant decides the final wording.
Related guides: Production, Warehouse, Quality, Cutting and Rolls.